A small hippie town in Northern Thailand, Pai is known for attracting backpackers who want to relax and embrace the Thai, slow-paced way of life. To get to Pai from Chiang Mai, it takes three hours and exactly 792 sharp turns up the side of a few mountains. Everyone gets their via a minivan from the bus station or a motorbike, and since I don’t have a death wish, I took the minibus.
An Australian backpacker I met on a tour in Pai said everyone she met while backpacking either loved Pai or hated it. Those who love it rave about the picturesque mountain in the backdrop of the town, the neon, artsy bars and the expats in drug rugs and beaded headbands casually filling the streets. Those who don’t love Pai complain mainly about the influx of tourists. I was torn on my opinion of the town. Pai had the absolute best walking street market that I’ve been to, with falafels, gyoza, lasagna, banana/Nutella egg rolls, everything, and there were delicious fresh strawberries everywhere. The town itself had a unique hipster feel to it, with lots of cafes, artisan coffee, herbal juice shops, and craft stores. Unfortunately, it also had an unmistakably touristy feel to it. Maybe I’ve been spoiled in Thailand, but I’ve gotten used to authentic Thai restaurants and not seeing “I Love (insert city name here)” t-shirts.
Aside from the walkable main area of the town, Pai has lots of natural sites to see. For 300 baht (less than $10USD), we took a full day tour of the nearby attractions. An hour and a half drive from the city is Lod Cave. We hiked through the three rooms of the cave with our lantern-wielding local guide, and bamboo rafted through the bat-filled caverns. Then we stood to look over the mountains at Yun Lai viewpoint, hiked up the steps to the white Buddha at Mae Yen Temple, explored Mor Pang waterfalls, and watched the sunset at Pai’s (much smaller) version of the Grand Canyon.
The next day we went swimming at Sai Ngam Hot Spring before visiting the Land Split, a crack in the Earth formed by an earthquake in 2008. At the land split we were greeted by a family that served us snacks of homemade jam, banana crisps, sweet potatoes and papaya in hammocks by the organic garden they run. Their friendliness and hospitality made it one of the most memorable stops on my trip. Then later we hiked up to Pam Bok waterfall.